The roof deck at Hotel Casa Tota
Todos Santos, 45-minutes north of Cabo on the Pacific coast of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, has long been known as a haven for artists, surfers, and any traveler seeking a mellow alternative to the mega-resorts and noisy bars of Cabo. But when I was sent there earlier this year by Endless Vacation magazine, what I found was a town that's recently been re-energized by an influx of eco-conscious Mexicans and expats. "Todos," as locals call it, is still a sleepy town of 8,000 residents with just one traffic light and mostly unpaved streets. But now there are stylish boutique hotels with free rooftop yoga classes; eco-aware shops where plastic bags have been replaced by totes made of recycled newspaper; and restaurants that rely on organic produce from local farms. The nearby fishing village of Pescadero has a fantastic surf school (gracias, Mario and Guillermo for teaching me how to surf!) as well as one of the best coffee shops I've ever discovered in Mexico, Baja Beans. (Yes, they brew via Chemex pots or French Press. Also: the chocolate cake is outrageous.) I also discovered Tortugeros Las Playitas, an environmental group that helps usher baby turtles back to the sea, and Todos Santos Eco Adventures, which runs bird-watching trips, horseback rides, and cliff-side walks. Oh, yeah, and I haven't even mentioned the vibrant art scene. Next time, I hope to buy one of Nanette Hayles' paper tile mosaics of a farm animal (she did a whole series for Flora Farms in San Jose del Cabo).
My article on Todos is in the winter issue of Endless Vacation. To read it: Download EV Winter 2012_TodosSantos
Fish tacos at Taqueria el Parguito ($2 each)
Imagine my surprise: a Chemex at Baja Beans