There are worse ways to get to know a city than through its food.
This past weekend, I was fortunate enough to be in Toronto for both Nuit Blanche and a fundraiser "picnic" for Slow Food Toronto and Evergreen, a non-profit organization that makes cities more livable by creating and restoring outdoor spaces. The event was held at the spectacular Brick Works facility in the Don River Valley—a former brick quarry and factory that dates back to 1889 and that's used for a weekly farmers' market, chef workshops, sustainability fairs, etc. It will soon be the site for Evergreen's ambitious new environmental community center, slated to open in summer of 2010. (In fact, that's what this fundraiser was for: generating funds to finish the construction.)
First of all, forgive me, because I did not take notes. You try scribbling in a notebook while carrying a wine glass in one hand (you only get one for the entire picnic) and a compostable bamboo plate in the other. So I rely purely on my fickle memory and the memory of my boyfriend and our friends (Torontonians)—and the handful of business cards and menus I swiped from various food stands.
The theme of this year's picnic was "locally global"—a celebration of Toronto's diverse food traditions. Each chef (specializing in Mexican, Indian, Middle Eastern, etc. cuisines) was paired with a leading locavore chef and a local grower to showcase a seasonal ingredient.
- Chef Jamie Kennedy Making Pakoras
Anyway, the wait was worth it: crispy heirloom bean pakoras (above) with yogurt raita or a smokey eggplant salsa. After this, things get a little foggy, no doubt helped by a glass of Steam Whistle pilsner and a generous swig of Frogpond Farm's standout organic cabernet-merlot. (Frogpond is one of two certified organic wineries in Ontario.) I had a plateful of Argentinian goodness from a restaurant called Canoe: steak tartare, lamb empanada, and a salted tongue (a delicacy I saved for my meat-loving boyfriend); a diminutive pulled pork taco; and a lovely spear of butter chicken and stewed apricots. Clearly, this all called for another wine pairing, so I refilled my glass with a touch of organic and biodynamic merlot from Southbrook Vineyard.
As the five of us slowly made our way over to the dessert area, I looked up from my now-empty plate long enough to notice that several eaters were in a similar state of post-prandial bliss: walking around the barn-like room with dazed expressions, licking their fingers and looking for the next delectable morsel. (Mind you, there were over 60 restaurants present so it did get a bit overwhelming. What is it about being human that makes you want to try everything?)
The thing about these Slow Food events, where zillions of top chefs and local producers are vying for your attention, is that they tend to be fairly insular. (Well-heeled foodies hitting a never-ending smorgasbord of the best local food and wine...I must admit, it does sound elitist.) However, this was hardly a navel-gazing event. Proceeds from the tickets supported two worthy causes: in this case, both Slow Food Toronto (which defends biodiversity and supports small-scale, sustainable, local economies) and Evergreen's new facility, which will eventually house a native plant nursery and garden center, a "green job" training program for area youth, food gardens, farmers' markets, hands-on geology exhibits, and so on. (For more on Evergreen Brick Works, see here.)
- Sweet: Ontario Peaches
So then, back to dessert. I tried a prune streusel cake with a dollop of whipped cream from Crush Wine Bar; a tiny piece of Matchbox Garden carrot cake (made with heirloom carrots by Amuse-Bouche chefs Jason Inniss and Bertrand Alépée), topped with a sprig of lavender; a sliver of fresh Ontario peach that blew me away (above); and a Hungarian dumpling with plums from Loïc Gourmet. Just to prove that I could exercise some restraint, I skipped the homemade honey ice-cream, made with honey from the hives that sit atop the Royal York hotel.
Everyone agreed that the culinary highlight of the day was a pear-pumpkin fritter (made by Brook Kavanagh from La Palette), with a cinnamon-and-maple syrup custard interior. The organic pears were sourced from Ontario's Lincoln Line Orchards and the pumpkins (which were puréed and added to the batter) were from a nearby farm called Psennings.
Earlier in the afternoon, when I was still hungry and sober, I'd spoken to a woman from Farm Start, an Ontario-based non-profit that offers support and training to a new generation of farmers, in some cases linking them up with "mentor farms." Canada's farmers are aging: the number of farmers under the age of 35 has declined from 25% in 1991 to 12% in 2001.
Standing in the Brick Works with my empty plate, I was not worried about the future of small farms. I was surrounded by chefs committed to serving seasonal cuisine, growers ready to supply it, and regular people more than happy to pay for it. Judging by the turnout at this fundraiser, Canada's Slow Food movement, like the U.S.'s, is alive and well.
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